Dani Arnold, born on February 22, 1984, in the canton of Uri, Switzerland, is a renowned Swiss mountaineer known for his extraordinary achievements in extreme climbing. From a young age, Arnold was drawn to the mountains, growing up in the mountainous village of Biel ob Bürglen in the Schächental region. His passion for climbing led him to become a prominent figure in the world of mountaineering.
Early Years and Introduction to Climbing
Arnold’s journey as a mountaineer began when he discovered his love for climbing in his early twenties. Despite his parents’ lack of support, he pursued his passion for climbing, particularly in the challenging discipline of free-solo ice climbing. This daring approach to climbing without ropes or protection showcased his exceptional skills and determination.
Speed Records and Notable Achievements
Arnold gained widespread recognition in the climbing community for his speed records and extraordinary achievements. In 2011, he made headlines with his record-breaking ascent of the Eiger North Face, completing the climb solo in an impressive time of 2 hours and 28 minutes. This incredible feat surpassed the previous record held by Ueli Steck and solidified Arnold’s reputation as an exceptional mountaineer. However, Steck reclaimed the record in 2015, beating Arnold’s time by six minutes.
Arnold had already established his presence in the climbing scene prior to his record-breaking Eiger ascent. In 2010, he accomplished the first winter ascent of Torre Egger in Patagonia alongside Stephan Siegrist and Thomas Senf. He also made a name for himself by setting a speed record of 1 hour and 35 minutes on the West Ridge of Salbitschijen.
The Swiss mountaineer continued to push his limits and explore new territories. In January 2012, Arnold became the first non-Scottish climber to conquer “The Hurting,” a highly challenging mixed climbing route in Scotland. This achievement showcased his versatility and ability to excel in different climbing styles. Additionally, he embarked on a significant expedition to Alaska in April 2013, where he completed the first ascent of the central headwall on the 1500-meter East Face of Moose’s Tooth with David Lama.
Arnold’s pursuit of new challenges extended to the iconic Matterhorn. On April 22, 2015, he achieved the fastest solo ascent of the Matterhorn North Face, completing the climb in an astonishing time of 1 hour and 46 minutes. This remarkable accomplishment further solidified his status as one of the most exceptional climbers of his generation.
In July 2018, Arnold set a new speed record on the Walker Spur (4208 meters) of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc Massif. He completed the challenging solo ascent via the Cassin Route in a remarkable time of 2 hours and 4 minutes, surpassing Ueli Steck’s previous winter record. With these achievements, Arnold currently holds the speed records for two out of the three major North Faces in the Alps.
Documentary and Publications
Dani Arnold’s incredible journey as an extreme mountaineer has inspired many, leading to the production of a documentary film titled “Berge im Kopf” (Mountains in the Mind) in 2014. The film provides an intimate portrayal of Arnold’s life and showcases his relentless pursuit of challenges in the mountains.
In addition to his remarkable climbing career, Arnold has also contributed to the mountaineering literature. His publication “Warum das alles? Rekorde & Reflexionen von Extremalpinist Dani Arnold” (Why All This? Records & Reflections of Extreme Mountaineer Dani Arnold) offers insights into his motivation, reflections, and experiences as an extreme alpinist.
Dani Arnold’s exceptional achievements in the world of mountaineering have solidified his position as one of the most remarkable climbers of our time. His speed records, daring ascents, and unparalleled determination have captivated the climbing community and beyond. Arnold’s relentless pursuit of new challenges and his commitment to pushing the boundaries of mountaineering continue to inspire future generations of climbers. As a Swiss mountaineer, Arnold has left an indelible mark on the history of extreme climbing, and his legacy will undoubtedly endure for years to come.
